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Beasties in the Spirits Bottle: Tradition, Gimmickry, and Risk
There is immediate marketing appeal in having something—a worm, a bug, a piece of fruit, a sliver of wood—floating in a bottle of spirits. There’s also some history and tradition behind the practice … but there are risks.
A jar of rượu thuốc, or “snake wine”—in fact, a distilled rice spirit—on Cat Ba Island, Vietnam. The label explains its purported medicinal value for pain relief, cough relief, detoxification, physiological enhancement for men, prevention of rheumatism, and anti-inflammatory. Photo: Joe Stange.
We’ve all heard the stories—bottles of tequila with a “worm” at the bottom, daring you to drink from the liquid in which it was embalmed. Or maybe it was a snake in the bottle? Or a scorpion?
In fact, it was certainly mezcal rather than tequila that had the “worm”—back then, however, most people weren’t familiar enough with either to know the difference. And the “worm” was technically not a worm but a larva, even if the Mexicans call it gusano de maguey, or agave worm. Mezcal bottled with one inside—such bottles are still around, if not as popular as they once were—is called mezcal con gusano.
How Did the Little Guy Get in There?
There are tales about the origins of mezcal con gusano—that the larva improved the flavor of the spirit; that it brought strength and good fortune to whomever got to drink the worm; that it was an aphrodisiac; that the “worm” was a sign of the spirit’s potency or purity. To some, the gusano was a marker of quality; to others, it was a mystery.
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Devon Trevathan is a freelance trade writer as well as the cofounder and co-owner of Liba Spirits, a nomadic distilling company. She has held a variety of positions related to beverage alcohol: bartender, server, writer, brand ambassador, marketing consultant, tour guide, wine manager. Follow her on Instagram @devlovesbev for updates on the journey of owning a distilling company but mostly pictures of her dog Gilberto.
