CS&D Podcast Episode 5: Riley Henderson of FEW Spirits Explores Whiskey’s “Last Frontier”—Fermentation

What’s left to do in the world of whiskey? Plenty, if you ask FEW Spirits director of operations Riley Henderson. For him, the secret lies in embracing slower, more flavorful fermentations.

Sydney Jones Apr 30, 2024 - 4 min read

CS&D Podcast Episode 5: Riley Henderson of FEW Spirits Explores Whiskey’s “Last Frontier”—Fermentation Primary Image

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It may seem like everything that can be done, has been done, but for FEW Spirits operations director Riley Henderson, novel fermentations offer new opportunities for flavor in familiar spirits such as rye whiskey and bourbon.

Half a decade ago, FEW embarked on a project to explore the impact of fermenting with koji, a mold historically used for saccharification in sake and soy sauce, among other foods and drinks. Results were mixed at first, but through iteration and adaptation, FEW has landed on a process that works consistently and produces flavors that carry through distillation, producing flavor that’s worth the effort.

This episode is also an exit interview of sorts, as host Sydney Jones—current head distiller at FEW—brings her time there to a close before setting off for a new challenge with Heaven Hill in Kentucky. During their conversation, Sydney and Riley also discuss:
- challenges in balancing packaging style with speed, safety, efficiency, and reliability - managing fermentation with small grains such as rice - understanding the impact of yeast strains on distilled and aged spirits - propping up and maintaining a koji culture - pH adjustment and bacterial protection using citric acid - finishing fermentation with temperature-friendly kveik yeast - impacts of new and second-use oak on aging koji-fermented spirit

And more.

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Sydney Jones is the Head Distiller for FEW Spirits in Evanston, IL, and has been working in the distilled spirits industry since 2016. Sydney is also a regular contributor to Artisan Spirit Magazine and American Craft Spirits Association publications, including the newly released e-book, “The ACSA Guide to Starting and Operating a Distillery.”

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