crème de noyaux

crème de noyaux are among the first “secular” liqueurs, as distinct from the monastic liquors elaborated in the secrecy of the monasteries, made in France in the middle of the seventeenth century. At the time, it was common to use the almond-like hearts of certain fruit kernels such as peaches, apricots, cherries, and prunes to make liqueurs. Their almond taste and aroma come from benzaldehyde, a naturally occurring molecule contained in the kernels. Some of these specialties, such as crème de noyaux de Poissy, liqueur de noyaux de Vernon, or crème de prunelle de Bourgogne, often enjoyed only very local popularity yet have managed to pass through the centuries. Historically, producers have used either maceration or distillation to create these cordials. In the first case, the hearts are crushed and infused for a few weeks, often commingled with their broken hulls, in a brandy (cognac or Armagnac, for example) before adding sugar syrup to achieve a liqueur with 35 percent ABV with a slight amber color. The other method is to macerate the kernels in alcohol (by adding, if necessary, vanilla, rose buds, etc.) and then to proceed with the distillation. After reduction and addition of sugar syrup, the liqueur is clear and is usually bottled at 40 percent alcohol. American examples are typically colored red (thus lending the Pink Squirrel cocktail its signature color), although quality ranges widely. Crème de noyaux is sipped straight and used in some cocktails such as the Old Etonian, the Mikado, and the Jockey Club.

Demachy, Jacques-François. L’art du distillateur-liquoriste. Paris: 1775.

By: Alexandre Gabriel