rice-aroma-style baijiu is a rice-based spirit closely associated with the folk rice wine (mijiu) tradition of southeastern China. Rice baijiu presents a bit of a paradox to outside observers: it is by far the most accessible Chinese spirit to the foreign palate, but it enjoys little prestige in China’s domestic market. This is probably attributable to a widespread national preference for bold, aggressive flavors not found in rice spirits, which tend toward a mellow, floral flavor profile similar to Japanese sake and more in line with global preferences.
In terms of production, rice aroma differs from other baijiu styles in several crucial aspects, most obviously in the use of rice and sticky rice instead of sorghum as its primary ingredient. Distillers of rice baijiu typically steam rice three times prior to fermentation. Unlike other categories, rice baijiu performs saccharification and fermentation in separate steps, undertaking the former in small jars with rice-based small qu and the latter in larger jars to which additional water and qu have been added. See saccharification; fermentation; and qu. Rice baijiu is also sometimes made in continuous stills, as opposed to more traditional Chinese pot stills. The raw distillate averages around 58 percent ABV prior to blending and often has a slight yellowish tint.
Different distilleries have also added their own twists. Guilin Sanhua in Guangxi Province—China’s most famous rice aroma producer—adds Chinese medicine (its ingredients are a company secret) to its qu, triple-steams its grain, and triple-distills its spirits. Shiwan in Guangdong Province infuses its aged spirits with pork fat. Rice baijiu is the most commonly infused spirit in China and easily takes on the flavor of various traditional herbs and spices.
Huang Faxin, David Tiande Cai, and Wai-Kit Nip. “Chinese Wines: Jiu.” In Handbook of Food Science, Technology, and Engineering, vol. 4, by Yiu H. Hui, 173-1-52. Boca Raton, FL: CRC, 2005.
Wang Kai 王恺, ed. San Lian Sheng Huo Zhou Kan 三联生活周刊 675. March 26, 2012.
By: Derek Sandhaus