Eggnog is a drink made from beaten eggs, sugar, cream or milk, and spirits. An American invention, Eggnog emerged in the mid-Atlantic region in the late colonial era, a cousin of the egg flip and Tom and Jerry. See Tom and Jerry. The first printed references to a drink called Eggnog appear in New Jersey and Pennsylvania newspapers in 1788, and it seems to have been popular in New England as well, where it often went by the name “Egg Pop.”
By the early nineteenth century, Eggnog had become closely associated with the Christmas holiday, especially in Virginia and other southern states. In many homes it was the tradition to make a large bowl of the drink early on Christmas morning for all the members of the household as well as any guests who dropped by to visit.
The standard recipe was established by 1815. Six or more eggs were separated, and the yolks were beaten with sugar, then blended with spirits (rum being most common but brandy or whisky, or a combination, was used as well, sometimes with the addition of Madeira or sherry) and either milk or cream. Finally, the beaten whites of the eggs were gently folded in, and the finished drink was flavored with nutmeg or lemon zest. Hot Eggnog made with warmed milk was a common variant, as was the single-glass version, where a whole egg was shaken up with sugar, milk, and spirits.
The popularity of Eggnog began to fade in the twentieth century, and the arrival of Prohibition largely put an end to welcoming Christmas guests with a bowl of potent spirits-based nog. Numerous recipes for nonalcoholic versions were published during these dark years, and by the time of Repeal, as far as most of America was concerned, Eggnog had evolved into an egg- and dairy-based beverage, usually bought premixed, that may or may not be “spiked” with alcohol—a far cry from its heritage as a fundamentally alcoholic drink. In parts of the Northeast and Upper Midwest, however, the original drink lies much closer to the surface. Some families in the region even age their Eggnog for a year or more under refrigeration before consuming it.
Recipe: Separate 10 eggs. Whip the yolks with 180 g sugar until sugar has dissolved. Stir in 500 ml brandy and 250 ml Jamaican rum, then 1 l whole milk. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites until they form stiff peaks. Fold them into the yolk mixture and refrigerate for 1 hour. Grate nutmeg over the top and serve. Whisky or other spirits may be used in place of the brandy and rum.“The Dram Shop.” New Haven Federal Gazette, April 9, 1796, 6.
“Elizabeth-Town, March 26.” New-Jersey Journal, March 26, 1788, 2.
Wondrich, David. Imbibe!, 2nd ed. New York: Perigee, 2015.
By: Robert F. Moss