strong-aroma-style baijiu is a Chinese grain spirit famous for its use of mud-pit fermentation. There are two predominant varieties of strong-aroma: simple grain, distilled entirely from sorghum, and mixed grain, distilled from sorghum and a combination of other grains, usually long-grain rice, sticky rice, wheat, and corn. Aside from ingredients, there is no major distinction between the two varieties in terms of production, and many distilleries produce both.
Strong-aroma baijiu is created by mixing steamed grains with wheat-based qu and burying the grains in large earthen pits. See qu. After the pit is loaded, it is sealed with mud to reduce aeration, and distillers regularly water down the seals or cover them with plastic to maintain high levels of moisture. After fermenting for two to three months, the grains are unloaded and distilled a layer at a time, with the deepest layer producing the finest spirits. The topmost layer of mash is discarded and replaced with fresh grains and more qu, then loaded back in the pits to begin the cycle anew. Spirits are stored and aged separately, then blended together into the final product.
Chinese distillers believe that the quality of a strong-aroma baijiu is connected to the age of the fermentation pit. Over countless fermentation cycles the yeasts and other microorganisms in the qu are absorbed into the walls and floor of the pit, further facilitating fermentation and developing stronger flavors over time. Most believe that a pit must be used for at least three years before it can produce acceptable baijiu, and at least thirty years for high-quality baijiu. Three major strong-aroma distilleries—Luzhou Laojiao, Shui Jing Fang, and Wuliangye—employ fermentation pits first used during the Ming dynasty (1368–1644). See Luzhou Laojiao; Shui Jing Fang; and Wuliangye.
Owing to its rich, fiery taste, it is the most popular baijiu style in China, accounting for at least two-thirds of the category’s production and nearly all of the premium segment. It is closely associated with the humid and fertile Sichuan Province, China’s leading baijiu producer, but also has production centers in the eastern provinces of Anhui, Jiangsu, and Shandong.
See also sauce-aroma-style baijiu.
Huang Faxin, David Tiande Cai, and Wai-Kit Nip. “Chinese Wines: Jiu.” In Handbook of Food Science, Technology, and Engineering, vol. 4, by Yiu H. Hui. Boca Raton, FL: CRC, 2005.
Zhang Wenxue 张文学 and Xie Ming 谢明, eds. Zhong Guo Jiu Ji Jiu Wen Hua Gai Lun 中国酒及酒文化概论. Chengdu: Sichuan Daxue Chuban She 四川大学出版社, 2010.
By: Derek Sandhaus