The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails

balance


balance is one of the most important goals to achieve when preparing a cocktail. Balance, the art of proportioning the sweet, bitter, alcoholic, sour, spicy, fruity, creamy, effervescent, and other ingredients so that they are in harmony, with none of them dominating or masking any other, takes a mixed drink that might otherwise taste ordinary and elevates it into a crisp, lively, memorable culinary expression. The overall combination of individual flavor components selected should certainly provide a deliciously pleasurable experience, but the negotiation of balance between those very same flavors should be so pleasing and so thirst-quenching that you would happily order another of the same.

The original recipe for a cocktail was a fairly straightforward one, made simply from a spirit, sugar, and bitters. See cocktail. Water came in the form of dilution from melting ice and tied the entire drink altogether. Yet even in such a simple framework, the balance achieved through the understanding of its components allowed the cocktail to become the figurehead of all mixed drinks today. The sweetening had to be perceptible enough to counter the alcohol in the spirit without being cloying; the bitters had to be used deftly enough so as to add just the right degree of complexity; and the ice had to not only chill everything down but also soften the heat of the spirit and provide just enough dilution to round out the edges of the overall drink without allowing it to become flabby.

The major flavor components the bartender works with are sweet, sour, strong, and bitter. On occasion umami is included as well, which is the work of glutamic acid. Glutamic acid, found in things such as cheese, eggs, and tomato juice, provides an enticing “meaty” flavor. It is the reason why a drink as simple as the Bloody Mary (when properly made) can be so satisfying. See tomato juice and Bloody Mary.

It is paramount to consider flavors and their counterpoints. Sweetness acts as a counterpoint to both sour and bitter. Yet too much sweetness can turn a perfectly good drink into a cloying one, as its overuse will dull the taste buds, suppress the appetite, and flatten the drink’s overall flavor. Consider the sugar levels of any given sweetener (or for that matter, any ingredient), and adjust the other components accordingly. Sourness will aid in cleaning the palate and engage the taste buds as well as allowing other flavors to be better received, yet too much sour will overwhelm the palate and make it difficult to taste anything else. Bitterness has the ability to cut through other flavors, reduce perceived sweetness, and overall “point a drink up.” But bitters can also quickly overpower a drink and, like salt, cannot be negated once added into the recipe.

Alcohol’s bite can be desirable in certain situations, but is not meant to be overpowering within a balanced drink, so proof should be considered as well. Higher-proof spirits will cut through other flavors, enhancing “dryness” on the palate and amplifying the bitter and sour components and at the same time suppressing the sweeter ones. Water (or other soft ingredients) can tone down the sharp edges of alcohol, but too much and the drink becomes flabby and lacking in character.

Balance can also be dependent upon the type of spirit being used, or even varying brands within the same spirit category. A Manhattan cocktail made with the softness of bourbon has balancing characteristics different from one made with the spicier rye, and adjustments are necessary as a result. See Manhattan; whisky, bourbon; and rye. Viscosity in any form can amplify the perception of sweetness, so when working with eggs or cream, one might consider reducing the sweetening agent in the recipe. Understanding the relationship between all of these factors and bringing them together in complete harmony is where culinary artistry enters the picture and balance takes its rightful place.

Embury, David A. The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks. New York: Mud Puddle Books, 1948.

Regan, Gary. The Joy of Mixology. New York: Clarkson Potter, 2018.

By: Audrey Saunders