The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails

stirring


stirring a cocktail is one of the two primary methods of mixing, along with shaking. It is typically performed in a mixing glass with a bar spoon. But one can stir a drink in, and with, almost anything. The primary purpose of stirring a cocktail, as opposed to shaking it, is to incorporate the ingredients without agitation so the drink’s texture remains smooth and even, and without any air bubbles. Additionally, some believe the ingredients in a stirred cocktail retain more of their distinctiveness, almost as if they were layered on top of one another. Finally, stirring chills and dilutes a drink more slowly than shaking, so more mixing time is required for the process.

History of Stirring

People have been stirring cocktails as long as they have been making them. Back in the late eighteenth century, stirring would have been a simple, straightforward way of integrating ingredients and dissolving sugar. In those days it was performed with a toddy stick. See muddler. It wasn’t until the 1830s and 1840s, when ice became a common bar fixture and the bar spoon came onto the scene that the technique became more refined. See bar spoon. Now the technique could be employed as a bona fide alternative to the tossing and shaking that were the fashionable ways of mixing drinks. See rolling and shake.

In fact, by the 1870s, stirring had become the most fashionable way of mixing. In the United States, anyway, tossing was on its way out, and in the most stylish bars, shaking was only done when unavoidable. That would reverse after Prohibition, when the flood of untrained bartenders ensured that shaking (much easier to do well that stirring) would be the orthodoxy. For much of the twentieth century in the United States, not much weight was placed on the technique of stirring itself, though in the late twentieth century in Japan, bartenders developed a new style of technique that was both ergonomically and aesthetically superior. What we now refer to as the “Japanese stir” has been adopted by many craft bartenders worldwide.

Which Cocktails Are Best Stirred?

It is generally accepted that stirring is best for cocktails that are comprised of only alcohol-based ingredients, such as spirits, fortified wines, or liqueurs. The appearance of these drinks also benefits, as alcohol-based ingredients are generally clear or translucent. The lack of aeration from stirring preserves their clarity. The Manhattan, Old-Fashioned, and Martini are some principal examples (with apologies to James Bond on the latter). See Manhattan Cocktail; Old-Fashioned Cocktail; and Martini.

Stylistically, these drinks are more spirit-forward. Stirring helps keep the overall structure of a spirit intact, with its subtleties more perceptible thanks to the even, silky texture. Also, with slightly less dilution and no aeration, a stirred drink will also seem a good bit stiffer than a shaken one, which is ideal for these types of cocktails because they are better when sipped and savored more slowly. As Kazuo Uyeda notes in his Cocktail Techniques, “Shaking takes the bite off alcohol, stirring leaves it in.” See Uyeda, Kazuo.

How to Stir

Broadly speaking, stirring a cocktail is very much like stirring something in everyday life. The spoon—or whatever apparatus is being used—pushes the ingredients around in a circle, and you try not to make a mess. Of course, for professional bartenders using a Japanese-style stir, it is a bit more involved. The goal of this technique is for the back of the spoon to remain against the inner wall of the mixing glass at all times, never moving into the center (this is much easier in a parallel-sided Japanese mixing glass than in a tapered American one). See mixing glass. This effortlessly pushes the ice around in a gracefully quiet whirlwind. The Japanese-style stir has three major benefits: it allows the bartender to stir faster; it is more fluid, providing better control of chilling and dilution; and—perhaps most importantly—it looks effortless and elegant.

There are various approaches to the Japanese stir. A common one is to hold the top of the bar spoon in place with the thumb and index finger while the middle and ring fingers take turns pushing and pulling it around the glass, sharing the balance of power, as the spoon spins between the top fingers. It helps to keep the bar spoon pressed up against the glass’s edge and let the contours guide it around.

As one begins to stir faster, the centrifugal force against the spoon will do most of the work, and the hand will just be the conductor. This takes some practice to master. But keep in mind that while it is fairly important for professional bartenders to learn, it isn’t a prerequisite to making good drinks. As long as the cocktail gets chilled and diluted without being shaken, it’s a stirring success.

How Long to Stir

Stirring typically takes 15–30 seconds. Variables include the condition of the ice, whether or not the mixing glass is chilled, and stirring speed. Large or dry ice cubes, a cold mixing glass, and slower stirring means more time is needed. Conversely, small or wet ice, a room temperature mixing glass, and faster stirring will need less time. To further expedite the rate of chilling and dilution some bartenders will hand-crack ice cubes to create more surface area; this greatly speeds up chilling and dilution.

ice, science of its use; and shake.

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Arnold, David. Liquid Intelligence. New York: W. W. Norton, 2015.

Embury, David A. The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks. New York: Mud Puddle, 2008.

Morgenthaler, Jeffrey. The Bar Book. San Francisco: Chronicle, 2015.

Oxford Night Caps. Oxford: 1827. Available online at https://euvs-vintage-cocktail-books.cld.bz/1827-Oxford-night-caps-a-collection-of-receipts-for-making-various-beverages-used-in-the-university1/2 (accessed April 6, 2021).

Uyeda, Kazuo. Cocktail Techniques. Translated by Marc Adler/Trustforte Language Services, Philip Hanson. New York: Mud Puddle, 2010.

Wondrich, David. Imbibe!, 2nd ed. New York City: Perigee, 2015.

By: Tom Macy